If someone mentions Ceylon, it is very likely that you will automatically think about tea. Quite understandable since it has been more than 150 years since the first plant was introduced on the island, and acquired very quickly the reputation of being the finest tea in the world. But where is Ceylon? Has it disappeared from the planet? Not really, but unless you got stuck with a map anterior to 1972, you won’t find it labelled as such. However, Ceylon was too entwined with the plant that brought it fame to abandon the scene completely. As of today, I don’t know a better place to enjoy a nice cup of the famous brew than Sri Lanka…
When in Rome…
For a coffee drinker with Mediterranean genes like me, the initial thought, ingrained for many past generations, that pierces through the state of ‘dormisveglia’, as you slowly leave behind your nocturnal dreams, is Coffee. So, the first thing you do in the morning is just that: have a cup of the original black magic that grounds you back to the reality of the day.However, when I started my peregrinations around the globe, I soon realized that in most parts of the world, tea is the real king; yes, in fact, the only thing that we, humans, drink more than tea on this planet is water. This holds true especially in Sri Lanka. When tea plants were first introduced from Assam and planted on its sloped terrain, nobody could have predicted that Ceylon would later rank as one of the biggest producer of Camelia sinensis, nor that the beverage would become an integral part of its culture. From the British period, the island has abandoned its name but kept a ritual: tea drinking.
The island has plenty of sunlight, rainfall and a wide altitude range. Its topographic and meteorologic conditions are ideal to grow the plant. However, producing tea is not an easy job; as much as 20kg of leaves are necessary to yield 5kg of tea, and everything is hand picked. Plantation workers, like most of the people, start their day early.
In a Sri Lankan home, you drink tea first thing in the morning, and you repeat the ritual throughout the day with a second cup around 10:30 am, followed by the afternoon ceremony, usually at 3pm.
You also drink tea whenever you have visitors, need a short break from your work duty or to relax watching the sunset. Any other unrelated reason is accepted.
Where to drink tea
No matter how remote you are, if there is presence of human life, there is tea. I tried some excellent and freshly brewed tea in many places.
- Street
- Shops
- Estates/ Museum
- Home
Street food sellers
I must say, buying my breakfast from the street vendors is my favorite way to breakfast. While traveling, I usually start my day before the sun, and having a tea as soon as possible is my first mission!(you can learn more about my Journey in Sri Lanka here).
The vendors and their stalls can be found in busy streets, sometimes on their way to their habitual spot, and definitely around every transportation terminal.In spite of their rudimentary settings, they are usually clean and the water is properly boiled. It also gives you a glimpse into the local life. Very often, I get invited to have a seat on a drum or a box, while sipping my morning tea, as people are very friendly and curious. I also like being their customer because they don’t earn much money and I rather buy from them than from well established franchises. Add a couple of bready snacks or cakes, taken out of the family oven only few hours before and you are set for the next few hours.
If – no, actually I should say, ‘when’- you travel by train in Sri Lanka ( the best way to discover the interior of the island, especially the Tea route), don’t bother looking for a restaurant car; unless you booked a ticket with a train service provider,such as Expo Rail, which is not available anymore, you will have to rely on other options. Fortunately, there is always a couple of aisle- crisscrossing sellers pacing up and down the train with a thermos and some cups. I buy their tea but drink it in my own collapsible cup.
Cafes, restaurants and shops
You want to know how people live? Go for the small, ordinary local cafes and eateries! They are both numerous and unpretentious, yet flocked by people, therefore busy, which means that the tea is likely to be prepared often (hence not rewarmed indefinitely) and you will be served promptly. The business has to run and the staff is fully awake. Quick, efficient, fresh.
In very small villages, the shop might be limited to a small shack, the size of a recess. Don’t be fooled, they too serve tea, you just need to ask.
Estates
Since the mid 19th century, plantations have increasingly taken over the indigenous flora – good for the economy even though not so much for the soil and biodiversity- and tea estates have bloomed rapidly.Nestled in the midst of the hills, they occupy the region, from sea level to 2000m. The Estate register list will help you find the ones closer to your path, and you can also directly ask people around.
Most tea estates offer tours – sometimes free- during which you will walk through the fields nearby, led by very knowledgeable guides that will also explain in details the process of making tea from the bush to your cup, while you visit their factory. The best thing is that you can taste all the varieties produced on site, a great way to find your favorite before buying from the Tea store.
You can spend a fabulous afternoon at the Ceylon Tea Museum, which is easily reachable by foot from Kandy. After the visit, go up to the top floor cafe, from where you will have a panoramic view of the hills range while you enjoy your cup(s) of tea. Then choose your favorite variety at the store one floor below before heading back to town.
“Would you like an adventure now, or would you like to have your tea first?”
At home
Since you are traveling, it is more likely that what you call home will be the guesthouse or the hostel you stopped at for the night, which will give you the opportunity to prepare your first local brew. I know that you might worry about the water quality: in general, water is collected from rain and is treated. So, in most places I found tap water good enough if you make sure to boil it properly, which is one of the requirements for a good tea, anywhere. However, in places where water comes from a lake, there might be residual chemicals from the surrounding agricultural soils. In the Jaffna peninsula and its islets, tap water comes from desalinization of sea water, which is clean but not always tasty! Good news, most of the hotels provide free access to their bottled water dispensers.
You might get invited for a cup of tea by your hosts or by complete strangers; it happened to me many times during my whole journey on the island. In such case, even if in doubt about the source of the cup contents, I politely accept anything that is presented to me.
Grades and varieties
BOP, TGFOPS, OF, or other series of letters appear on all tea packages. The first time I saw these strange code, I was still a complete ignorant regarding the secrets of tea, so I had to ask, and you won’t!
In the tea industry, products are categorized based on the type and condition of the leaves themselves. Grades are used to identify the type and condition of dry tea leaves. Firstly, they describe what part of the plant is collected as well as the size of the leaves, (young shoots or second highest leaf). Another distinction is made whether the leaves are whole or broken.The full scale is made of 25 different grades from the Special Finest Tippy Golden Flowery Orange Pekoe One ( SFTGFOP1) to the lowest Dust (D).
BOP is the most popular.
The grading system is not universally standardized and other countries use different codes. Variety refers to the unique flavor and taste of each tea, depending on the soil, exposition and altitude where it is produced, in much the same way as you would categorize wine. The 7 main producing regions are divided in Low , Medium and High grown countries. The aspect of the leaves, dry and infused as well as the resulting ‘liquor’ have their own specifics.The full tea terminology is extensive and a poem in itself!
What is popular ?
If you don’t say anything, you will be served what is available, which might reduce the options. In Sri Lanka, black tea is the most common, and it is usually either plain, or with milk. Ginger and coriander do not only give a special flavor to your tea, they are also known for their medicinal benefits. This particular spice tea has the property to reduce muscle pain as well as to fight a cold. No wonder that people feel more relaxed after a tea break.
Oh, I was on point to forget the sugar! Unless specified otherwise, your tea will be sweetened. Very much. If you are not a big fan of carbohydrates, make sure to let the cafe staff know when you order. They usually remember. When you are invited, Sri Lankan hosts are always very considerate and thoughtful for their guests and will set a sugar bowl to your discretion.
How to choose your tea
Black, Green ,White? What is the difference beside the colors, and how to choose the right one for you?
Tea originated in China, and there, like in the rest of Asia, people consume the fresh-tasting green tea. However when the virtues of the plant started to be recognized by the Occidental part of the world, export became a big thing. Here is when black tea entered the picture: once fermented, tea leaves can be preserved longer; an unquestionable advantage when it comes to spending few months on a ship faring to the European ports. Yes, the only difference between black and green tea is the process through which the leaves go.
Black tea
It has become the most commonly produced type, in response to the increase of tea exportation. Once picked, the leaves are withered, which allows to reduce the moisture while keeping them pliable. Then the tea goes through the fermentation process under specific time and temperature conditions. It is the oxidation that gives black tea its color, taste and flavor.
Green tea
Unlike Black tea, Green tea is not fermented, thus maintaining the original color of the leaves. Once withered the leaves are heated, (either steamed or pan-fired) and then rolled before going through the drying and sifting steps. The result is a somewhat fresher, vegetal taste. For this same reason , green tea is more difficult to conserve; it will loose its flavor and chemical properties faster than black tea.
White tea
Also called ‘Silver Tips’ in Sri Lanka,the real white tea is the finest and rarest of all. Unlike in most part of the world where White tea is actually a mix of different varieties, the Ceylon Silver Tips is an art within the Art. The plant buds are gently handpicked by only the most experienced pickers. Once dried, the leaves are directly packed.
About mid-distance between Mirissa and Unawatuna,The Handunugoda Virgin White tea plantation is special in two ways: it is surprisingly very close to sea level; it is in fact the only estate and factory in the coastal zone of the country. Its second originality is to produce the exclusive white tea: no machinery is involved, pickers wear gloves to pick the young buds still covered with white hair; sorted by hand and sun dried, the leaves receive first class treatment. As you may have guessed, this variety is at the high end of the price range.
How to prepare
your own flavory milk tea
Sri lanka style
- 3 cups boiling water
- 1 1/2 tbs loose coarse tea leaves
- sugar ( as much as you like)
- fresh or powder milk
Using a tea pot or a jug,
- Put the loose tea leaves into the tea pot.
- Pour the boiling water onto the tea leaves, a little bit at first to let the leaves absorb the water, then pour the rest. The quantity of tea leaves can be adjusted depending on how strong you like your tea. If you use tea bags, which are not as strong, use 2 tea bags for this amount of water.
- Cover and let brew for 3′ then stir well.
- Pour some of the boiling water directly into the cups to give them the right temperature (you will empty them just before pouring the brewed tea). I have seen many people putting the leaves directly in their cup and using the saucer to cover it. When the water is very hot, the leaves sink directly to the bottom but in any case, you can also use a tea infuser.
- Pour the tea into the cups, using a strainer if needed.
- Add milk and sugar. Nowadays, condensed milk and Nido (milk powder) are widely used on the island, as they are easier to preserve than fresh milk. In rural areas, people tend to use jaggery grated or choped into small pieces,instead of sugar (which is actually healthier in many ways).
- Serve with butter biscuits and plantain
Where can you buy tea?
- Estates
- Supermarkets
- Tea stores
- Airport
You can find tea to buy in every single supermarket and mini mart. They distribute the cheapest selections. You could of course find the same one back home, since many of the brands have become very popular and are exported to all corners of the globe but keep in mind that, unlike wine, tea quality doesn’t improve with time: the fresher, the better. It is a good practice to pack your tea in small quantities and seal it properly to preserve all its qualities.
I believe you are already familiar with Lipton, but do you know Dilmah and Mlesna? They are both highly sought after brands, both locally and internationally. Zesta is another very popular local brand that has been producing great quality tea for over a century. I tried as many brands as I could, all unknown to me previously and I was never disappointed.
In my opinion, buying the tea directly from the factory is the best option: they will sell you exactly the tea you tasted, so no surprise and it is a guaranty of freshness.
Specialized stores bring to you all the varieties that you could possibly find on the island, in one place. The stores are usually passed down from one generation to the next, so the owners are very knowledgeable about their products. In the main cities you will find very fancy stores who have directed most of their attention to the tourists but my favorite places are the smaller shops that look a bit like a Ali Baba cave and where the owner will tell you unending stories about the island while serving you a cup of his freshest brew.
If you have been wandering in the middle of the jungle since you arrived and made it just in time for your flight back, there is still the “airport option”, but as you already guess prices will make you want to infuse the package as well, and you will have to recall the scent from memory. Bonus option: take another trip to Sri Lanka!
How to preserve it
Keep your tea dry! You want to keep your ‘precious’ away from heat, light and air. And water of course! Store it in a airtight/sealed container. If you brought back a considerable quantity of your favorite varieties, separate them in multiple batches; it will reduce the exposition to air and oxidation. Glass makes a good container as long as it is opaque. Tin or other metal boxes work too. Some people use sealable plastic bags that are then kept into a tin can, an additional precaution to avoid odd smell contamination from the metal. A more traditional and excellent solution to keep your tea from deteriorating is to use a wooden box, lined with paper or foil and stored in a cool and dark place.What about your own tea experience?
“Find yourself a cup of tea, the teapot is behind you. now tell me about hundreds of things”
Have you been to Sri Lanka or other countries and discovered something new about tea? Did you become a tea aficionado? Do you have a memorable story involving tea? share your impression in the comments!
Let’s have a cup of tea anytime my dear and talented friend.